Snowflake Christmas Tree Skirt

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I know it’s barely August, but I was inspired to make a new tree skirt this year for my christmas tree. Since I was trapped in the truck during my “awesome” road trip, I had plenty of time to crochet. It’s one of my favorite parts of traveling. I found a 12 point star pattern online, and decided to work it into a snowflake pattern for under my tree.

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Materials Used:

2 1/2 skeins White  (Hobby Lobby super soft – I love this yarn) (color A)

2 skeins White/sparkle (Hobby Lobby Metallic – I love this yarn) (color B)

2 skeins Yarn Bee Fetching pewter (color C contrast)

Hook size I 5.5mm

Since I do my Holiday dining room entirely of white/silver snowflakes the color was as important as the pattern. You can use whatever colors complement your decor. I’m planning on a blue/red/white one for my BFF who has a “Cubs” tree for her honey each year.

The pattern is fairly simple, you can change yarns whenever you like, keeping the basic stitch in mind, and do as many rows will fit your needs. I have my tree on a platform that is 36″ in diameter, so my finished skirt is approx. 45″ across, with each point measuring 24″ long. I kept adding rows until I had the size I wanted. You can do less, or more just follow the pattern once established.

A few pointers as I worked along, establish the “right” side of your work so that when changing colors you begin at the proper side. When you’re keeping with the same color, you can simply turn and work back. But if you’re adding a new color you want to start on the “right” side. Working in the back loops of the “right” side makes a nice edge for the color change. (If you look closely, you can see I didn’t figure this out soon enough) If you use different styles/types of yarn it will also make the lines cleaner between them. Once I was finished, I decided to “edge” the entire piece in the metallic pewter yarn. See the inner ring of the beginning, it was all white until I put the final edge completely around.

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Note: The pattern I started with was somewhat confusing, so I decided to modify it for us basic crocheters.

Shell = *2dc, ch 2, 2dc* (makes the point of the snowflake, adding 1 st to dc total between)

P-st = *dc, ch2, dc* (makes the point, without adding dc to the count)

Row 1: using color A (plain white) *(chain 5, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in 5th ch) repeat 11 more times (makes 12 “bumps” ) with 2-dc, and 3 ch spaces each. (24 st) Mark as the right side….

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Row 2: pull yarn up in the ch3 space, chain 2, (counts as dc) dc, ch2, 2dc, in the same space. *2dc, ch2, 2dc* repeat in each of the 11 bumps. turn. (48 st)

Row 3: slip st in next st, ch 3, *2dc, ch2, 2dc* in the ch2 space, dc in next st, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, *shell* in the ch2 space, dc in next stitch, repeat 11 times, skip last stitch turn (72 st)

Row 4: sl st in next st, ch3, dc in next st, (counts as 2dc) *shell* in the ch2 space, dc in next 2 stitches, skip 2 stitches, *shell* in the ch2 space, repeat 11 times, skip last stitch turn (96 st)

Row 5: We’re going to start the “ripple” portion of the skirt working in all dc, skip first stitch, dc in each of next 2 sts. P-st in the ch2 space, dc next 3 sts, (sk 2 st, dc in next 3 st, p-st in ch sp, dc in next 3st) 11 times. (96sts) finish off. (I changed to pewter)

Note: when you’re working a color change row, remember to work in the back loops except when working the *shell* or *P-st* in the ch2 spaces. 

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Row 6: Remember to start on the right side (color c) skip first stitch, join color C in back loop of next st, ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in back loop of next 2 sts, *shell* in the ch 2 sp, dc in back loop of next 3 stitches, (sk 2 sts, dc in back loop of next 3, *shell* in ch2 space, dc in back loop of next 3 sts) 11 times skip last stitch. finish off (120 st)

Row 7: Remember to go back to the right side again (color B) skip first st, join color B in back loop of next st, ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in back loop of next 3 st, *shell* in ch2 sp, dc in back loop of next 4 sts, (sk 2 sts dc in back loop of net 4 sts, *shell* in ch 2 sp, dc in back loop of next 4 sts) 11 times. turn (144 sts)

Row 8: skip first stitch, chain 3 (counts as dc) dc next 5 st, P-st in ch2 space, dc next 5 std, (skip 2st, dc 5 st, P-st in ch 2 sp, dc 5 st) 11 times skip last stitch, turn (144 st) no increase on the P-st rows.

Row 9: slip stitch in the first stitch, ch3 (counts as dc) dc in next 4 sts, *shell* in the ch2 space, dc in next 5 std, (skip 2, dc in next 5, *shell* dc next 5) 11 times, skip last stitch,  (168st) finish off.

Note: So, the gist of this pattern repeats with every third row. Shell rows add one to the count of dc worked between the points and dips, but the third row is worked with a P-st no increase.

Row 10: Remember to start on the right side, and work in the back loops if you are changing colors (color C) skip first st, join color C, chain 3 (counts as dc) dc next 5 dc, *shell* in ch2 space, sc next 6 sts, (skip 2 sts, *shell* in ch 2 space, dc net 6 sts,) 11 times. skip last stitch. finish off. (192 sts)

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Row 11: (color A) skip first st, chain 3, (counts as dc) dc next 7 sts, P-st in ch 2 space, dc in next 7 sts, (sk 2, dc 7 sts, P-st, dc next 7) 11 times, skip last st, turn (192 sts)

Row 12: slip stitch first stitch, ch 3, dc next 6 sts, *shell* in ch2 space, dc next 7 sts, (sk 2, dc in next 7 sts, *shell* in ch 2 space, dc next 7 sts) 11 times.  turn (216 sts)

Row 13: *shell* row, 8dc finish off

Row 14: (color C) *P-st* 9dc finish off

Row 15: (color B) *shell* 9 dc turn

Row 16: *shell* 10 dc turn

Row 17: *p-st* 11 dc finish off

Row 18: (color C)*shell* 11 dc finish off

Row 19: (color A) *shell* 12 dc, turn

Row 20: *P-st* 13 dc, turn

Row 21: *shell* 13 dc, turn

Row 22: *shell* 14 dc, finish off

Row 23: (color C) *p-st* 15 dc, finish off

Row 24: (color B) *shell* 15 dc, turn

Row 25: *shell* 16 dc, turn

Row 26: *P-st* 17 dc, turn

Row 27: *shell* 17 dc, finish off

Row 28: (color C)*shell* 18 dc, finish off

Row 29: (color A) *P-st* 19 dc, turn

Row 30: *shell* 19 dc, turn

Row 31: *shell* 20 dc, turn

Row 32: *P-st* 21 dc, turn

Row 33: *shell* 21 dc. finish off

Row 34: (color C) *shell* 22 dc when you come to the end of the row, *shell* on the corner, then dc along the edge in each of the ch3 spaces and each row. work *shell* around the corners and dc in each space around the top, around the corner and back down to row #33. finish off.

My color pattern was white for the first 5 rows, single row of pewter, 3 rows sparkle, pewter, 4 rows white, pewter, 4 sparkle, pewter, 5 rows white, pewter around the entire outside edge. You can certainly do any combination of rows, yarn textures, have fun!! Use up those scraps, or do it entirely of the same color and sew on some buttons, charms, or tassels. I think mine needs some snowflake crystals on the ends of each point. Hmmmm, think I need a trip to the bead store!

As Always, Enjoy,

Debbie

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18 thoughts on “Snowflake Christmas Tree Skirt

  1. Hi Debbie, I have just purchased the yarn to make the tree skirt for a niece who just got married for Christmas as a keep sake. Can you tell me how many you chained to start the skirt.? Thanks Pam

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  2. I found your pattern which is very beautiful, my question ROW 3 and 4 what is to be repeated, the other rows to repeat are indicated by the ( ) so those I know what to repeat. Thanks

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  3. For row 4. After you do the first shell and dc in the next 2 you skip 2 stiches but there are 3 stitches on each side. What do you do with the third stich before doing a shell in the ch2 space? I can’t get it to look right.

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